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Market battles to keep charm

Vendors at Sam Chuk fear its history, culture and even architecture are at risk now a Unesco award has put it on the tourist map

  • Published: 17/07/2010 at 12:00 AM
  • Newspaper section: News

Vendors at the popular Sam Chuk Market are fighting to preserve its traditional heritage which earned it a Unesco award as a sudden influx of tourists turns it into a gaudy, modern venue.

Tourists are greeted by the sign ‘The 100-year-oldSam Chuk Market’ at the main entrance.

The committee which manages the more than century-old market in Suphan Buri is discussing ways to tackle overcrowding and an invasion of non-native products going on sale.

The market won the 2009 Unesco Asia Pacific Heritage Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation. Since winning the award, it has appeared on tourism maps and is attracting more and more Thai and foreign visitors looking for a nostalgic experience from witnessing the old shophouse commerce.

The market in Sam Chuk district sits on the banks of the Ta Chin River. The market is well-known for its rows of wooden shop-houses which used to be a rest-stop for travellers in the old days.

Ratree Opas, a retired government official and community committee member, said the Unesco award has led to a sudden surge of tourist interest in the market.

However, the community committee is worried that increased popularity may come at a price.

Chinese-made,massproduced toy drums are sold atSamChuk Market. They are amongitems nonnative to the area which have ‘invaded’ the market.

The market risks losing its own cultural identity as many tourists do not care enough about the history, the culture or even the architecture of the market.

"Most of the tourists come here to shop. Only a few of them are really interested in our culture and way of life.

"We're afraid the economic gains may have hidden the appeal of the cultural heritage the market has to offer. The appeal will one day vanish altogether," said Mrs Ratree.

Mrs Ratree said some shops at the market were selling mass-produced items instead of local products reflecting the local cultural identity. She said the 'threat' could be curtailed through cooperation from traders. She recently convened a meeting of local shop owners and asked that they sell only locally-made products and food.

"But the problem is that we don't have strict regulations to make them comply. It's up to them whether they want to cooperate with us or not," she said.

Crispy noodles are neatly packed in plastic boxes.

In addition to protecting culture, the tambon Sam Chuk Municipality and the Sam Chuk Market committee have now been training young students to be tour guides to give tourists information on different types of cultural heritage at the 100-year-old community.

The young guides, some of whom are English-speaking, are knowledgeable in local architecture, folk arts and tradition.

Pongwin Chaiwirat, mayor of tambon Sam Chuk Municipality and chairman of Sam Chuk Market community, said the market has been changing very fast over the past few years. Local residents have recognised the need to preserve the integrity of the local architecture and the culture of the market where traders form a close-knit community.

The traders banded together to fight against the Treasury Department's plan to relocate the Sam Chuk Market and construct modern buildings at the present market location.

Ashopkeeper selling all kinds of utensils waits for customers at his store.

The traders wrote to the Fine Arts Department requesting that it declare Sam Chuk as a cultural heritage site so it could be preserved. The subsequent declaration prompted the Treasury Department, which owns the Sam Chuk Market land, to cancel the plan, Mr Pongwin said.

Mr Pongwin said in order to preserve the cultural heritage at the market it was necessary for locals, non-governmental organisations, universities and government officials to work together to make it a sustainable community. They must work together in their efforts to preserve the market.

"Even though we still want help from government agencies, especially in terms of funding and participation, they should first ask us what type of projects we want to see taking place here," he said.

He said now the community wants the traders and vendors to be trained to speak basic English so they can communicate with foreign tourists.

Jankai Dejpien, 36, a salted egg vendor at the market, said after the market won the Unesco award, many more tourists started coming to the market.

"Some foreigners have dropped in at my stall, but I can't speak English fluently. If they give me English training, I would attend it for sure," said Ms Jankai.

Sompong Chotiwannasap,47, a cloth shop owner, said: "I'm ready to cooperate with the municipality and committee to help protect the culture of Sam Chuk Market."

Poonsap Suksaranjit, 30, who sells toys, said she was also concerned that cultural preservation at the market might be threatened by an increasing number of visitors.

But she did not think selling modern toys there would be detrimental to the market. She was merely giving buyers a greater choice of products, she said.

Cloth and polysynthetic bags are a commonsight atSam Chuk Market.Many are produced outside of the area. PHOTOS BYANUCHACHAROENPO

Ashop hangs up wooden masks for tourists to see. They add to the long list of items ‘alien’ toSam Chuk.

Anarrowstreetbeside the market is full of shops selling beveragesandreadyto- eat food.

About the author

columnist
Writer: Anucha Charoenpo
Position: Reporter
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